Wine Region: Hemel-en-Aarde

(2026) vin Grant made this wine specifically to be auctioned for the charitable Cape Winemkers Guild, and just over 60 six-bottle cases were produced and raised a considerable sum. You may be able to pick a bottle up if travelling to the Cape. Vinified along traditional Burgundian lines, including 20% whole-bunches, it is even paler than the regular 2024 in the glass, perhaps a little more subtle, showing delicate spices with nuttiness and then creaminess too from a subtle and lightly toasty oak. So much freshness to this with a delicate, filigree quality that is quite beguiling.

(2026) From stony, clay-rich shale soils, this saw spontaneous fermentation including 20% whole-bunches, in open tanks, followed by eleven months in French oak barrels, around 10% new oak. Pleasingly light in colour earthy notes of rhubarb and beetroot rise over over cherry and red berry fruit. Aromatic, with a richness of liquorice and plum skins on the palate, there's plenty of acidity here, the ripe oak tannins also adding freshness. Lovely red fruit drive with peppery spice in the finish. Price and stockist quoted at time of review is for the 2022 vintage.

(2026) For this wine the fruit either destalked but not crushed, or whole bunches, fermented spontaneously before ageing in older 225L French oak for 10 months. The aromatics are reined back here, but this has gained a lightly waxy, gravelly, earthy character. Lots of citrus skins and orange peel here, and while it is less creamy than the Earthborn, it compensates with gravelly grip and intensity.

(2026) The treatment for Earthborn is similar to the regular Chardonnay with spontaneous fermentation, but of organically grown grapes, and 11 months in French oak barrels from Burgundy, around 15% new wood. Indeed it has a similar profile to the 2024 Chardonnay also tasted, but ramps up the creaminess and concentration, perhaps a slightly more tropical/exotic fruit quality, but wonderfully rich and nutty with a searing core of lime acidity. Price and stockist quoted at time of review is for the 2022 vintage.

(2026) Made by the 'black' method, this was fermented with natural yeasts in French oak barrels (17% new) from Burgundian coopers, where it aged for eleven months. It did not go through malolactic fermentation. Gorgeous nose of oatmeal and crushed almond, delicate spices and creamy stone fruits. The palate has a real vibrant lime acidity that is fresh, but also intense, leading to a long, shimmering finish.

(2023) The Emma in question is daughter of Creation's owners Jean-Claude and Carolyn Martin. I was lucky enough to be at the winery when the first Pinot was made by Emma, the 2012 vintage, when she was aged just 11. Her latest release is made with wild-yeast fermentation and minimal intervention. It was matured in French oak barrels for 12 months, 40% new and 60% second-fill. Only 800 bottles were produced. It's a pale coloured and nicely perfumed Pinot in a reserved and rather classy style. Delicate wood spices and firm red berry fruit the main components. The palate is lovely. There's plenty of juicy, ripe red fruit, touching into strawberry, but the svelte texture and background of creamy, dark oak-derived substance gives solidity too. Excellent acidity and again, spiciness, into a long finish.

(2022) From one of the longest-established estates in the Walker Bay area, Pinot Noir with ten months in French oak barrels, 30% of which were new. Fine nose, combining cherry and a wisp of smokiness, a sweet plummy earthiness fills in too. On the palate the fruit is elegant and sweet, carrying the 14% alcohol well, that due to the good level of acidity and brisk tannin structure, and the oak filling in both a smokiness and tree bark sense of earthy dryness. Juicy enough though, and drinks very nicely.

(2022) From one of my favourite producers of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in South Africa, this was whole-bunch pressed. Light gold in colour, there is flint here and a smoky barrel note, nutty almond and creaminess combining with stoner fruit aromas. In the mouth there is abundant fruit sweetness and ripeness, loads of lightly buttery and nutty apple and more exotic peachy flavours, the oak adding a sheen of oatmeal and the acidity beautifully poised. Another class act from Newton Johnson.

(2021) Yes, you read that right: this is a 10-year-old wine, from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in South Africa. I don't know the story behind this matured example being available now, but it's a blend of Shiraz and Pinotage, aged in new oak for 18 months. The colour gives away its age; still quite deep and dense but with brick on the rim. There is a meaty, mature level of oxidation evident on the nose, some coffee and old polished wood notes. In the mouth the fruit still has sweetness, and a certain richness, though tannins have been worn away to just a firming edge. The acidity is juicy and actually rather well balanced, the wine finishing on mushroomy but rich fruit with plenty of natural ripeness and sweetness.

(2021) A label of the Hamilton-Russell family, only nine barrels of this wine are made. It is grown on ancient shale soils over clay in Hemel-en-Aarde, three kilometres from the ocean, but separated by hills, so maybe not so much ocean influence. This is from 60-year-old trellised vines. 10% of stems are dried in the sun and added to the fermentaion, the wine made in a small basket press. Big, super-heavy statement bottle. Vinous nose of dark cherry and plum, all about dark savoury fruit at first, but a little glimpse of something floral and some espresso barrel component comes through. Powerful, sweet-fruited and concentrated on the palate, very firm in its blue/black fruit and tannins. Well-judged acid also adds a touch of salinity in the finish.