Always a superb wine, Virginia Willcock's top Chardonnay is made from the gingin clone, fermented with wild yeast, and aged in French barrels, 52% of which was new oak. This wine always has ripeness and the winemaker's signature flinty character, but I have to say the 2023 is a beauty.
The combination of those components and winemaking style mean there's buttercream, vanilla and hints of tropical fruit, but a steely precision where gunpowder and Lapsang souchong notes add layers of intrigue. Mid-palate the fruit is sweet and ripe, creamy and mouth-filling, with plenty of concentration. Lemon pith grip is evident in a long, savoury, chewy finish that still retains elegance and freshness.
Heytesbury 2023 is a superb Chardonnay for drinking now, or for medium term cellaring.