Wine Region: Central Otago

(2026) A pale-coloured Pinot made with one-third whole bunch fruit, there's a cranberry and hessian character on the nose, but the small, savoury red berries are packed in here, as well as a glimpse of exotic incense. In the mouth it has a supple, redcurrant and cranberry fruitiness, gentle and well balanced with some herbal notes and elegant tannins and acidity that barely ripple the surface. Price and stockist quoted at time of review are for the previous vintage.

(2026) For me the best vintages yet of this unusual white wine, vinified from Pinot Noir. A blend of fruit from two contrasting blocks, one exposed the full sun and heat, the other from a much more sheltered exposition. It is a highly aromatic wine, summer berries and spring flowers combine in a delicate profile, with a soft peach down finesse. In the the mouth the fruit sweetness and purity is truly lovely, with juicy ripe pear and citrus, a steely firmness adding tension through to the long finish.

(2026) The A1 sees 23% new oak, and again around one-third is fermented with whole bunches. As pale as the A2, but aromatically it seems a little more intense, a little more ripe red fruit character showing with cherry and a hint of summer pudding, and that lightly stemmy, hessian and truffle background. The palate certainly shows a little more fruit sweetness and concentration too, the acid a little more juicy and biting and the tannins just showing more muscle. The elegance is there, however, beautifully composed into a long, balanced finish. One that could be given a little more time, but delicious now. Once again, the quoted price and stockist is for the previous vintage at time of review.

(2024) This organic certified Riesling from actor Sam Neill's Two Paddocks estate is in the just off-dry style of so many Rieslings from the Central Otago area. Floral, talcum power overtones sit on crisp apple. The palate has that light sherbet sweetness, but a big juicy thrust of lime acidity powers through, then the peach-down hint of tropicality reasserts. This finishes dry and decisive, the clean acid framework winning the day.

(2023) Once again there's some sugar here, with 5.9g/l, on soils of schist, gravel and clay. The vineyard is 17 years old, and sits at some altitude - 288 to 313 metres. Moderately aromatic, the typical Gewurz aromatics there but restrained and subtle. In the mouth this tastes pretty dry, with some phenolics picked up from skins and some time in older barrels. 50% was also wild yeast fermented which adds some textural and aromatic complexity, but perhaps at the expense of Gewurz exuberance. The touch of sweetness in the finish offsets a slightly bitter citric element nicely, and the subtle perfume of lychee does translate into a little juiciness. No UK retail stockists at time of review.

(2023) With 11g/l of residual sugar this off-dry wine comes from vineyards around 20 years old planted at 225 - 400 mtres. There is schist soil here with some quartz, over clay. Creamy and buttery here, lots of ripe, peach pie character with a cut of apple zestiness. In the mouth it is rich rather than out and out sweet, with a full texture and so much peach and apricot succulence and sweet fruit. Lovely acidity, a light spice, and such a lovely full-bodied off-dry white.

(2023) Cab Franc from Central Otago is a new one on me, this made in extremely small quantities, in older oak barrels, and without added sulphur. Extremely vibrant purple in colour, the nose has Indian ink and blueberry, a very deeply hewn interpretation of Cabernet Franc, coal dust and emerging floral notes adding to the intrigue. The palate is racy, dry, and very, very pure, the bittersweet black fruit and tart fruit skins running into a rasp of tannin and fresh acidity. It's a fascinating wine, showing Otago's cool climate purity but real substance. No UK retail listing at time of review.

(2023) As always, A2 is that bit more approachable in its youth, and indeed this is 100% approachable - and delicious. The melange of cherry, spicy tobacco and undertow of game and truffle is inviting. The palate opens with sweet, juicy fruit, but that hint of olive and briar sappiness adds an edge of clarity. The tannins and acids combine effortlessly for a supple, crisp finish.

(2023) From a Pinot Noir focused (obsessed?) estate I have followed for several vintages, this is a concentrated and powerful, yet balanced expression. The nose has balsamic-drizzled cherry and even strawberry notes, just lovely fragrance with florals, herbs and spices all in the mix. The palate shows delightfully ripe and sweet red and black berry fruits, nicely etched by its acidity and a herbal edge, and the support of some oak and firm but ripe tannins underpinning the finish. A very good vintage of this wine, and undoubtedly a wine with 10 years cellaring potential.

(2022) From a parcel of vines grown on their own roots, and planted in 1994. The wine is organically certified and fermented using wild yeast, with nine months ageing in French oak barrels, 20% new. A nice transparency on the rim of this ruby wine, and once again as we have moved south, meatiness and savoury depth here, but once again, there's that floral and herbal Pinot lift again. In the mouth it is another smooth devil, chocolate and spice, but such a lovely core of sweet, ripe, plush fruit. Terrific smoothness to the tannins and lovely balance to the acids. A terrific drinking wine this.