(2023) While 'This Septered Isle' used all seven of the permitted grapes of Champagne to make a dry white wine, here only the five white varieties are employed: 90% is Chardonnay, along with Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier, Pinot Gris and Arbanne. The wine spent nine months in French oak barrels, on the lees. The nose has a gentle almond creaminess, a little touch of Jack Daniels character in the background, golden delicious apples too. In the mouth this is etched by a crisp white fruit acidity, the English orchard fruit of the mid-palate just teasing towards a peachier ripeness. The finished has a Seville orange tang, and is bolstered by some buttery oak.
(2023) This was a tank sample - not a disgorged, finished wine, so had received no dosage. It has not been released at time of writing. It's a very different blend from the 2018, made from 98% Pinot Meunier and with 15% French oak barrel fermentation for the base wine. Very citrussy, with a tangerine brightness, and decisive acidity. A lovely line of saline acidity and the most subtle support from the barrel. Very promising. Note the 2018 is the vintage on sale at time of writing.
(2022) Beware the small print here, as the very dark glass disguises the fact that this is in fact a delicate rosé, not a red, with a fascinating winemaking story: fermented with Rioja yeast and aged in French and American barriques for three months. There's a hessian and herbs, savoury note to the aromas, but also vanilla over raspberry. It's undeniably complex, my mind also going to charcuterie, umami characters. In the mouth a lot of intense fruit sweetness and ripeness, but the grapefruity, lemon-pithy bite of the acidity and that dry redcurrant fruit that underpins the wine gives loads of gastronomic appeal. Balfour suggest matching to strong cheeses, which would be an interesting experiment. Don't serve this too cold; treat it more like a red wine.
(2022) This special limited edition comes from a single vineyard, the fruit selected specifically for structure and concentration. After extended French oak maturation it was bottled without fining or filtration. There is a dark core to the colour, but still a translucent, broad rim. There's a very classy graphite and cool earthiness, then compact, quite wiry and muscular black fruit on the nose. In the mouth this has the grip and concentration as promised. Firm black cherry is polished by the oak and firm, fine-grained tannins, and again black cherry skin acidity. Lively and should cellar well for 5 to 8 years at least. Available from balfourwinery.com at time of review.
